From July 21 to 26, 2024, the cocktail celebration Tales of the Cocktail® 2024 was held in New Orleans, USA. During the event, from July 23 to 25, iichiko USA transformed the first-floor restaurant Kenji at the International House Hotel into an exclusive iichiko bar, inviting top bartenders from around the world to serve standout cocktails made with iichiko. Taking advantage of this rare opportunity, we spoke with these leading bartenders about the appeal of iichiko Saiten, the unique qualities of shochu in general, and the potential for creating innovative cocktails with them. At the iichiko bar, each bartender presented three cocktails featuring iichiko Saiten, iichiko Silhouette, and other products; here, we showcase one cocktail photo from each interview.
⇒ Read Part 1: “The Growing Presence of Shochu Cocktails at the Largest Cocktail Event in the U.S.”
Text: Akira Suzuki / Photography: Koichi Mitsui /
Composition: Contentsbrain / English translation: LIBER
Shochu’s Flavors Unfold Further with the Addition of Water or Mixers
Julia Momosé, owner-bartender of Bar kumiko
I think it’s important to encourage an understanding of koji when explaining shochu to American customers. At Bar kumiko, we start with a tasting menu, and before the meal begins, we serve a plate with tea, shichimi (Japanese spice blend), furikake (seasoned rice topping), mozuku (seaweed), nori (seaweed sheets), and koji.
I introduce koji last, explaining that if they’ve ever had miso soup or used soy sauce in Japanese cuisine, they’ve already tried something made with koji.
In English, we refer to koji fungus as ‘saccharification agents,' and I explain the process of saccharification, where complex carbohydrates like starch are converted into simple sugars, which then allows the yeast to turn those sugars into alcohol. I also touch on ‘parallel multiple fermentation,' a unique method used in shochu and sake production. This process is fascinating because, thanks to parallel multiple fermentation, high-proof spirits can be produced with just a single distillation. I explain that this results in a distinct, slightly rich flavor, creating a spirit that pairs well with water.
One of Julia's cocktails for the day, Whetstone
Whether you add water, tea, ice, or even hot water, the taste of shochu itself doesn’t change—how should I put it? It doesn’t become diluted or lose its character. Likely because it’s made with koji, the shochu is packed with flavor and texture, and adding water or other mixers actually enhances and opens up its original flavors, making them feel even stronger.
Other spirits that don’t use koji, of course, have a strong and enjoyable flavor when you drink them straight. But when you add water, they somehow become softer. That difference is what makes shochu so unique and remarkable.
PROFILE
Julia Momosé
Born in Nara and raised in Kyoto. Lived in Japan through high school, then moved to the U.S. to attend Cornell University. Started her bartending career as a student in Ithaca, New York. Moved to Baltimore, Maryland in 2010, where she got experience at RYE of Baltimore. Shined as a bar menu creator after a year and a half. In 2013, she became a bar chef and head bartender at The Aviary in Chicago. She later joined Green River, where she earned the establishment its first Michelin star while serving as head bartender. She also managed the cocktail program at the restaurant Oriole. In 2018, she co-founded Bar kumiko. The book she coauthored in 2021, “The Way of the Cocktail: Japanese Traditions, Techniques, and Recipes,” won a James Beard Foundation Award in 2022.
Europe’s Top Chefs Have Helped Spread the Appeal of Koji
Shingo Gokan, founder of SG Group
iichiko Saiten, made with koji, is easy to work with as a bartender. Using something like this expands the range of expression for Japanese bartenders when creating cocktails.
When I was working in bars in the U.S., there were no Japanese spirits with an alcohol content in the 40% range, so after returning to Japan, I wanted a Japanese spirit at 40% ABV (alcohol by volume) and even went on to develop The SG Shochu⋆2.
About ten years ago, people in Europe started saying that koji was something interesting. As miso and soy sauce became more popular in the U.S., koji also became more familiar. Along the way, instead of calling it ‘rice malt,' it gradually came to be known simply as koji.
One of Shingo Gokan’s cocktails for the day, Cold Soba Negroni
It’s the same with sake and shochu. What used to be called ‘rice wine’ or ‘rice spirits’ is now known as ‘sake’ or ‘shochu.’ Similarly, more people in the U.S. now understand what koji is. In fact, it’s even reached the point where not knowing koji might be seen as uncool.
I think this trend is probably influenced by the Nordic restaurant scene. Top chefs in Nordic restaurants have really focused on koji. Of course, there’s also the influence of Japanese cuisine, but it’s not just that. As Europe’s top chefs started paying attention to koji and fermentation, words like miso, soy sauce, and koji became more widely recognized in the U.S. as well.
⋆² The SG Shochu: A shochu series developed under the supervision of Shingo Gokan, primarily for use in cocktails, made from barley, sweet potatoes, and rice. Sales began in 2020. The SG Shochu MUGI (40% ABV) is produced by Sanwa Shurui (Usa City, Oita Prefecture), The SG Shochu IMO (38% ABV) by Satsuma Shuzo (Makurazaki City, Kagoshima Prefecture), and The SG Shochu KOME (40% ABV) by Takahashi Shuzo (Hitoyoshi City, Kumamoto Prefecture).
PROFILE
Shingo Gokan
Born in 1983 in Kanagawa Prefecture. In 2006, he moved to the U.S. and became the fourth head bartender of Angel's Share. In 2012, he won the global Bacardi Legacy Cocktail Competition. In 2014, he simultaneously opened the speakeasy-style bar Speak Low and the bar tool shop OCHO in Shanghai. In 2017, he opened Sober Company in Shanghai and was named International Bartender of the Year at the Tales of the Cocktail® Spirited Awards®. In 2018, he opened The SG Club in Shibuya, Tokyo. In February 2020, he launched The SG Shochu, a shochu developed in collaboration with SG Group and three distilleries. In 2021, he opened SG Low in Shibuya. In 2022, he opened El Lequio in Naha, Okinawa. In 2024, he opened Sip & Guzzle in Manhattan, New York, and SG Tavern in Marunouchi, Tokyo.
The Flavor of Koji Doesn’t Get Lost in Cocktails
Erik Lorincz, owner-bartender of Kwãnt Mayfair
I think the greatest appeal of iichiko Saiten and shochu in general is the distinctive flavor derived from koji. Despite having complex elements, it never gets lost as a base in cocktails. The unique characteristics of shochu as a koji-based spirit really stand out, giving the cocktail a distinct and memorable flavor profile.
One of Erik's cocktails for the day, Last Sword
When using it as a base ingredient in cocktails, the 43% ABV of iichiko Saiten is ideal. Since the alcohol content decreases when other ingredients are added, having a higher ABV like 43% helps maintain the drink's structure.
Shochu with a typical ABV of 20% or 25% is great to drink on its own, with a smooth finish, and that’s perfectly fine as well.
PROFILE
Erik Lorincz
Born in Slovakia. Erik studied bartending at a school in Prague, Czech Republic, and after working for about four years at the first bar in Slovakia, he moved to London, where he became the 10th head bartender of American Bar at the prestigious hotel, The Savoy. In 2010, he was named Diageo World Class Global Winner. In 2018, American Bar won two categories at the Tales of the Cocktail® Spirited Awards®: Best International Bar Team and Best International Hotel Bar. In 2019, he opened Kwānt in central London. The bar was selected for the World’s 50 Best Bars list and was awarded Best New International Cocktail Bar at the Tales of the Cocktail® Spirited Awards®. After closing in 2021 due to the aftermath of the COVID-19 pandemic, it reopened in 2023 as Kwãnt Mayfair and was ranked No. 52 on the extended list of The World’s 50 Best Bars 2023.
Japanese Spirits Are Fun to Experiment With
Kevin Diedrich, owner-bartender of Pacific Cocktail Haven (P.C.H.)
I think shochu has a lot of potential for growth. Especially with the creation of iichiko Saiten, there are more opportunities to use shochu in cocktails. I feel that more people are starting to use this high-proof shochu in their drinks.
Koji has a unique flavor and aroma that sets it apart from other spirits. Its umami really stimulates the palate, creating wonderful combinations. This flavor, which excites the taste buds, is something you don’t find in other spirits. With such a distinct character, it’s an incredibly fun spirit to experiment with in cocktail-making.
One of Kevin's cocktails for the day, One Thousand Cranes
In fact, when we use iichiko Saiten in cocktails at places like Pacific Cocktail Haven (P.C.H.) in San Francisco, the response is very positive. By incorporating the unique elements of koji and the refreshing qualities of shochu into familiar cocktails, it creates something that appeals to American cocktail enthusiasts and draws them in.
PROFILE
Kevin Diedrich
Born in Virginia, USA. After a career as an IT engineer, he began bartending in 2001 at the Ritz-Carlton in Washington, D.C. In 2005, he moved to San Francisco and brushed up his techniques. In 2009, he moved to New York, and worked at renowned bars like PDT and Clover Club. Opened Pacific Cocktail Haven (P.C.H.) with his cofounder in 2017. P.C.H. was selected among
“The World’s 50 Best Bars” in 2018 and 2019. At the 2020 Tales of the Cocktail® Spirited Awards, P.C.H. was named “Best American Cocktail Bar” and Diedrich was “Best American Bartender.” In 2021, a fire forced P.C.H. to close, but it reopened at a new location in 2022 to mesmerize its many fans yet gain. More recently, P.C.H. was ranked No. 38 on “North America’s 50 Best Bars” in 2024, and No. 16 in 2025.
iichiko Saiten Has the Potential to Become a Major Spirit Category
Danil Nevsky, bar consultant and founder of Indie Bartender
Danil Nevsky, bar consultant and founder of Indie Bartender
For most Westerners, their first introduction to Japanese drinking culture is often poor-quality sake served at subpar sushi restaurants run by non-Japanese owners. That’s usually the case. So, encountering iichiko Saiten feels like discovering a whole new world for people like us.
What’s fascinating is that it has a very unique flavor, unlike anything I’ve tasted before. This is extremely important in the world of spirits. Generally, we only talk about five types: gin, whiskey, vodka, tequila, and rum. Spirits that offer other options fall outside these main categories.
However, I believe that iichiko Saiten in particular has the potential to become a new main category in spirits. It has a unique flavor that doesn’t resemble any of the existing five categories, which means it can establish its own identity. It doesn’t need to be classified under anything else, and that’s incredibly important. Having individuality is crucial in brand competition.
When I first tasted iichiko Saiten, I was amazed. I’d had shochu before, but this time, I thought, ‘Wow, I’ve finally found something that suits my taste!’ Products reflect the culture and people of the country or region where they’re made. Japanese people, along with their culture and food, exude a clam, steady presence—and, well, I suppose you could say something more refined and sophisticated.
iichiko Saiten has a bold and assertive flavor that even those of us who aren’t Japanese can appreciate. After all, we can’t change our sense of taste or how we perceive flavors, right? When I tried this, I thought, ‘Finally, a high-proof shochu I can use in cocktails. It’s something I can use as a main spirit, with its unique and diverse flavors—I’ve finally found the perfect fit.'
PROFILE
Danil Nevsky
Born in Russia, Danil has traveled to bars worldwide, connecting with bartenders in different regions and sharing inspiration by incorporating new trends and techniques. He has lived in Ukraine, England, Scotland, and the Netherlands, and now resides in Barcelona, Spain. Danil advocates for the 'Indie Bartender' concept, which represents a new way for bartenders to work independently, pursuing creative projects and jobs outside traditional bars and corporate structures. Through social media and his website, he actively shares insights on working as an Indie Bartender, addressing industry challenges, and celebrating success stories as a bartender. In 2022, he was ranked 3rd on the Bar World Top 100, a list honoring the Top 100 Most Influential People in the Bar Industry by Drinks International. In 2024, he received the Best International Bar Mentor award at the Tales of the Cocktail® Spirited Awards®.
⇒Read Part 1: “The Growing Presence of Shochu Cocktails at the Largest Cocktail”