Honkaku shochu (single distillation shochu) typically has an ABV of 20-25%, but in 2019, iichiko Saiten debuted in the U.S. market as a honkaku shochu with a higher 43% ABV. The product has generated buzz as a groundbreaking honkaku shochu that was developed as a cocktail base. This adds options to the typical ways shochu is imbibed in Japan, where the distilled alcohol is typically served mixed with hot or cold water, or on the rocks. Offering a new way to enjoy honkaku shochu, iichiko Saiten has inspired creative ideas from bartenders and is gradually gaining acceptance in the U.S. as a base for craft cocktails. This article reports on the iichiko IRODORI Cocktail Competition. Sanwa Shurui organized this contest for mixing drinks with iichiko Saiten in New York City on March 16, 2025.
Text: Reiko Young / Composition: Contentsbrain / English translation: LIBER
iichiko IRODORI Cocktail Competition finalists at Bar Goto Niban. Fourth from right: iichiko USA, Inc. President Genmei Akamatsu.
Sanwa Shurui puts on the iichiko IRODORI Cocktail Competition. It was previously held in Hong Kong on November 11, 2024 and in Singapore on November 12. The final round was organized at Bar Goto Niban in Brooklyn, New York on March 16, 2025.
After screening entry forms and video entries, the original 71 bartenders submitting entries were narrowed down to nine finalists, who presented original cocktails mixed with iichiko Saiten. In addition to a cash prize of $1,500, the winner was invited tothe Sanwa Shurui Distillery in Oita Prefecture, Japan. The runner-up received $800 and the second runners-up $400.
●Rules
- All cocktails must be mixed with at least 1 ounce (30 ml) of iichiko Saiten.
- Each cocktail can contain up to a maximum of six ingredients.
- All garnishes must be edible.
- The recipe should be sustainable to reduce waste.
●American Finalists
- Kith Fox (Alter Ego) / San Jose, CA
- Harry Wright (Service Bar) / Washington D.C. (2nd)
- Marie Yoshimizu (Intercontinental Hotel Bellevue) / Bellevue
- Alec Hunter (Paper Plane) / San Jose, CA (3rd)
- Koharu Usui (Bar Goto Niban) / New York City, NY (1st)
- Elis Carriero (Vice Versa) / Miami, FL
- Chelsea Van Billiard (Pacific Cocktail Haven) / San Francisco, CA (3rd)
- Jeanette Perez (The Roosevelt Room) / Austin, TX
- Jens Cromer (Thunderbolt) / Los Angeles, CA
Spread of Koji and Fermentation Culture Creates Opportunity for Up-and-Coming Bartenders
Finalists from across the U.S. gathered in New York City to compete in the final round of the iichiko IRODORI Cocktail Competition. On the day before, March 15, the finalists were invited to two bars, Angel’s Share and Katana Kitten, where they were treated to cocktails made with iichiko Saiten and iichiko Silhouette.
Here at two of New York’s most popular bars, the cocktails served brought out the best of iichiko Saiten and iichiko Silhouette. With their elaborate complexity like that of fine cuisine, they were truly worthy of being called craft cocktails. With the final competition coming the next day, the finalists enjoyed the shochu cocktails in a relaxed atmosphere, despite the slight nerves they were feeling.
A get-together for the contestants was held the day before the competition. (Venue: Katana Kitten)
In the U.S., a vast country with a diverse population of different ethnicities and cultural backgrounds, how has shochu been received? Let’s ask the contestants.
“L.A. is a big city, and lots of people are open to trying new things, like shochu. I have to explain the difference between Japanese shochu and Korean soju, but lots of people are interested and they ask questions.” (Jens Cromer, Thunderbolt, Los Angeles, California)
“Whiskey is very popular in Texas, but after they hear about it, a lot of guests are willing to try a new spirit like shochu. I’m Mexican, and personally, I think shochu has something in common with mezcal. Shochu brings out a cocktail’s flavor and enriches it.” (Jeanette Perez, The Roosevelt Room, Austin, Texas)
Many customers in the U.S. market still prefer standard cocktails, but in urban areas, they seem to be more open to spirits they haven’t tried before. There is definitely a certain number who are interested in honkaku shochu.
Cocktails Reflecting Diverse Backgrounds in a Multiethnic Nation
The day of the iichiko IRODORI Cocktail Competition, May 16, finally arrived. The nine bartenders selected from across the U.S. arrived at the venue.
The judges were: Kenta Goto, owner-bartender at Bar Goto and Bar Goto Niban; Takuma Watanabe, owner-bartender at Martiny’s; Jacques Bezuidenhout, consultant; and Natalie Migliarini, editor-in-chief at Beautiful Booze. They observed the contestants’ mixology skills from the bar counter at the venue.
Under the competition rules, the finalists unveiled cocktails made with iichiko Saiten. Presentation was part of the criteria, but so was finishing within the allotted time.
Many of the American finalists didn’t have any preconceived notions or stereotypes about shochu, so their cocktails were all one-of-a-kind concoctions. The ingredients and techniques they employed were also impressively creative. Given the contestants’ diverse backgrounds, many of their drinks reflected their roots, identities, and experiences.
The judges evaluated the contestants on their originality, creativity, storytelling ability, communication with the judging panel, understanding of iichiko Saiten, and sustainability. After tasting the cocktails, they asked the finalists questions. While such competitions typically proceed in a quiet yet moderately tense atmosphere, the moment when a contestant rocks the shaker back and forth is a highlight-reel moment that always elicits cheers, making for a lively and energetic event.
Techniques, Tactics, and Ingredient Usage to Bring Out iichiko Saiten’s Umami Flavor
This competition pitting unique cocktails against each other hinted that shochu will continue to expand in the U.S. market. The winner was Koharu Usui from Bar Goto Niban, who presented her drink, Garden Ruby. Taking inspiration from the tomatoes she had when visiting Oita Prefecture, the home of iichiko Saiten maker Sanwa Shurui, she beautifully expressed the irodori (colors) of this competition with the red of the tomatoes and Negroni. The umami and the sweetness in the tomatoes bring out iichiko Saiten’s umami flavor.
“For this cocktail, I wanted to leverage the distinctive personality iichiko Saiten has from being produced with both atmospheric and vacuum distillation. When I visited Oita, I came upon some delicious tomatoes. They’d been picked that morning. I took advantage of the atmospheric distillation to bring out the tomatoes’ rich umami, then added white port to bring out the floral aroma from the vacuum distillation. I then turned my focus to bringing out the flavor of the barley koji that is iichiko Saiten’s key ingredient by adding a few drops of shio koji. This brought out the umami while balancing it with the bitterness.
Koharu Usui and her Garden Ruby cocktail that took first place（The bottle pictured bears the previous design. The current product may have a different label or shape.）
“I’ve heard that Sanwa Shurui began through a merger of four sake breweries and the company has grown while maintaining harmony between them. They’re like Negroni in that they’re different elements coming together to create timeless, classic flavors. I think this parallels the essence of iichiko.”
With her deep knowledge of honkaku shochu, Usui has been planning and organizing the weekly Shochu Sundays at Bar Goto Niban.
“I want as many American connoisseurs of adult beverages to develop a familiarity with honkaku shochu. That’s why I joined this competition. I want more people to enjoy it. I think one appealing aspect of honkaku shochu is the many different ways you can savor it.”
The runner-up was Harry Wright from Service Bar in Washington, D.C. His Asameshi (breakfast) Swizzle, mixed with banana and coffee, scored high marks for a combination of ingredients that was unexpected but perfectly complemented iichiko Saiten’s flavor.
Runner-up Harry Wright from Service Bar with his Asameshi Swizzle
Chelsea Van Billiard from Pacific Cocktail Haven (San Francisco) and Alec Hunter from Paper Plane (San Jose), both hailing from California, were the second runners-up.
Second runner-up Chelsea Van Billiard from Pacific Cocktail Haven
Second runner-up Alec Hunter from Paper Plane
One of the judges, Kenta Goto, had the following to say about this competition.
“I was a judge at the several contests Sanwa Shurui held with honkaku shochu before the iichiko IRODORI Cocktail Competition, and I think the overall level of the contestants has improved over time.
Kenta Goto served as a judge.
“My impression is also that there used to be a big gap between the contestants’ skill levels, but this time it was very close between the winner and the rest of the pack. In the end, the cocktails that best showcased iichiko Saiten’s qualities earned the highest marks. The winning drinks included ingredients that brought out iichiko Saiten’s flavor, such as tomato or banana.”
I want to show people a new world through the allures of honkaku shochu, a spirit distilled with koji
The champion Koharu Usui (right) and President Akamatsu
The iichiko IRODORI Cocktail Competition attracted top bartenders from across the U.S. to show off their skills. Genmei Akamatsu, Senior Managing Director at Sanwa Shurui Co., Ltd. and President of iichiko USA, Inc., oversaw the competition. He talked about honkaku shochu’s prospects in the U.S. market.
What were your impressions of the iichiko IRODORI Cocktail Competition?
Before IRODORI, Sanwa Shurui held other competitions with honkaku shochu in other states, but I was surprised to see the much higher level of skill on display this time. I was really impressed by the depth of the contestants’ mixology and how they explored new possibilities with their cocktails. I felt that these American bartenders were pouring their own lives and experiences into their recipes.
I saw with my own eyes how they crafted cocktails by combining various sensibilities. I also thought that American bartenders are skilled at presentation and at showing how you can have fun with mixed drinks.
Second runners-up Chelsea Van Billiard (right) and Alec Hunter (center) with President Akamatsu
What is the significance of the iichiko IRODORI Cocktail Competition?
I want bartenders and their patrons in the U.S. to learn about the appeal of honkaku shochu and distilled spirits made with koji. I hope we can raise awareness about honkaku shochu and show people the various ways they can enjoy distilled spirits made with koji. The mixology in the U.S. is top notch, so I am delighted that some of the best bartenders in the country tried using our shochu.
We also want to hold the iichiko IRODORI Cocktail Competition in Japan sometime. Hopefully, contestants will create innovative cocktails that forge connections between our products and mixology, and use our shochu with a deep understanding of it.
Do you get the sense that honkaku shochu will become more widespread in the U.S. market?
It’s hard to sell an alcoholic product in an overseas market without making inroads into that country’s cultural sphere, but I have some sense that we’re on the right track because some top American bartenders are using our products. We will keep working hard to build relationships.